The Pauls are the force that drives "Walks in Spain" and, also, drive the vans for the tour walkers. We benefitted from their careful organization and adaptability skills to experience a walk of a lifetime. They were our guides and "know-everything" gurus. When plans changed, they helped us move with the flow. Their smiles and suggestions helped each of us find the walk that worked for us. But first we gathered together.
Lucky for me, The Pauls put me in touch via email with two couples from the Boston area. Our arrivals in Santiago coincided on the same days which led to a lunch meeting on Saturday at Las Caracoles Restaurant for a sumptuous seafood feast and a taste of the famous dish pulpo gallego. We found common ground discussing walks, books, food and history. Turns out some of us are "food movie" collectors. I was happy to connect with fellow travelers. The gathering together began.
Soaked and empty streets on Sunday morning(early, of course) resulted in a trek to find an open bar/cafe. My only company were the men riding the hose machines to clean up the streets.
The first place with an open door was dark inside, but I saw two men inside drinking coffee and decided to enter. The tables filled up quickly. The man in the back had just completed his second walk on the "Camino". He and his wife did the first walk a few years ago. Now, they have written a book "The Italian Odyssey" about walking into Italy from Austria...or, somewhere.
The Zumo machine is for a friend who is an aficianado of fresh orange juice..
Pickup time to head out of Santiago was 10:45A.M. I waited impatiently with my suitcase in front of my hotel. The big black Mercedes van arrived with the Americans and a couple from Australia already ensconced. Next stop - Astorga.
Our lovely old Hotel Casa de Tepa in Astorga is a gem with its elegant stone facade and its newly restored interior. The rooms were stunning. As I saw a cot being pushed down a hall, I guessed I, as a single, would have the teeny room, but no, I was on the ground floor in a stunning master suite with a paisley covered sofa and a luxurious bathroom.
A welcome buffet was planned for later in the evening, so, after dropping our bags in our rooms, we were herded out toward the plaza a few blocks away to have our midday meal. The plaza was pleasant and the menu readable, but we ran into a communication problem with our waiter as we fumbled with our Spanish to describe exactly what we wanted. One by one we finally managed to order what we wanted and have it delivered. The bill was settled amicably. The interaction led to more discussion and joviality as we became more acquainted with one another.
What's a plaza without a church? The bell tower boasted a female and male statue whose jobs were to came to life and strike the bell with their gongs....frequently. One had to look quickly to catch their motions.
Back at the hotel I wandered in the gardens awaiting the evening when all of us would meet and gather together for our first official meal together.
Careful preparations for our welcoming reception were underway all afternoon. I watched them change the tablecloth three times. The elegance was a surprise which contrasted with my image of all us walking on dusty trails the next morning. But I was not complaining.
Finally, we all gathered together and Paul the Dad opened the evening with a presentation of our detailed itinerary and daily procedures. I appreciated the details for each day which included the names of the towns, hotels and inns where we would start our walks, eat our meals and sleep at night.
The gathering was complete. Our group consisted of five people from the United States, four from Canada, three from the United Kingdom and two from Australia. As we passed the platters of Spanish hams, cheeses, salads and breads the conversation was lively. We raised our glasses in toasts to our guides, ourselves and the walk we would begin in the morning.
By the conclusion of the evening I knew we would establish a comraderie and fellowship on the road.
My only regret about Astorga was that the Episcopalian church designed by Gaudi was closed, therefore, I did not take a picture of it even though it was next door to the hotel.
YEAH!! I have a new follower! Thanks mj.
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