The mystical Cathedral of Santiago is a sanctuary for pilgrims, a curiosity for tourists and a haven for the young protestors of today. Packed on the weekend to welcome the pilgrims, the real attraction is to see the monks send the botafumeiro soaring to the top of the ceilings. Pleas, praise and penance are raised to the heavens by throngs of petitioners.
With my usual flawless timing, I arrived as the incense burner finished its descent. Oh well, it was the tiny one anyway. The large one weighs 120 pounds.
Time to find a different kind of sustenance. This Swedish couple and I broke bread together and shared pedron peppers and travel tales. Their travel began in Portugal and thy wended their way to Galicia and found it suited them.
Saint James' missions ranged from Jerusalem past Rome and into the northwest region of Galicia. His mission was to bring Christianity to the farthest reaches of the world. Northwest Spain was it. He returned to Judea where he was beheaded. His body, so the story goes, was returned to Galicia by friends who traveled in a concrete boat and ultimately entombed his remains in the Galician hills. In later centuries, A sliver of his skull was reunited with the body in a perfect match. The legend grew.
In the ninth century, the resurrection of Saint James as a savior to push the Moors out of Galicia was a rallying cry for the people. His miraculous appearance on horseback wielding a sword at the battle of Clavijo inspired Christians to rise up and rout out the Moors from Iberia. The legend grew, but the battles continued until 1492. This event coincided with the real adventures of Wilfred the Hairy and Charles the Bald whose battles with the Moors in Catalonia are historically documented...but, you all know the story of the Catalan flag.
Saint James the Pilgrim is usually seen wearing the brown robe and hat. He is recognized in a group because he usually carries a book. I like this man.
The pilgrimages began in the 8th century and continued through the Middle Ages. Today the road is filled with pilgrims, walkers, and tourists. It is estimated that 250,000 walked The Camino n 2010. Whether people walk, attend Mass, hug St James, everyone expects a special experience, whether spiritual, historical, or gastronomical. The list goes on.
Cathedrals are exhausting. I chatted outside a bar with a Basque woman who chose to visit Santiago for her vacation this year. Our conversation covered the bombings of Guerinica and Dresden as well as sharing our support and sympathy for President Obama.
